Shoe construction and binding cord therefor



Oct. 20, 1942. I J. FElN 2,299,316

SHOE CONSTRUCTION AND BINDING CQRD THEREFOR Filed Mar-oh 18, 1941 v INVENTOR.

Patented Oct. 20, 1942 UNETED STATES lE Z tTENT QFFICE SHOE CGNSTRUCTION AND BINDING CORD THEREFOR- 1 Claim.

This invention relates to the shoe art, and deals more specifically with the improvement in the manufacture of shoes, of the uses and application of the binding cord, generally known as French cord.

Under the present practice the cord or binding is applied to the marginal portions. of a shoe upper in the following manner:

After the upper is cut, and before the application of the lining, a grosgrain tape or ribbon, known in the art as French cord, is placed in edge to edge and face to face relation to the outer face of the upper, and stitched thereto by a line of stitches which are as minutely spaced from the marginal edge of the upper as is practicable. Following this operation, the thus sewed together parts are laid out fiat, and a coating of rubber cement is applied to the inner surface of the tape and the adjacent inner edge of the upper.

This done, the cord is turned over the edge of the upper and is laid down on the inner surface thereof, and the aforementioned two cemented surfaces are thus made to adhere together. It is understood, of course, that the cord is turned over so that it snugly covers the marginal edge of the upper, thereby forming the bound edge, which is familiar in ladies shoes.

Finally, the lining is stitched to the thus prepared upper, and the latter is ready for lasting, and other subsequent operations in shoe making.

The foregoing operations must be carefully and skillfully carried out in order to produce a neat and well made shoe and are therefore relatively expensive and time-consuming.

It is therefore an object of this invention to produce a new binding cord and method of shoe manufacture which will improve the nature of the product obtainable, reduce the cost of binding the shoe upper, and generally simplify manufacturing methods.

It is a further object of this invention to produce a new and improved binding cord which may be sewed directly to the inner surface of the shoe upper, without the necessity for turning and cementing, as described above.

And it is a further object of this invention to provide binding cords which will permit the marginal edge of the upper to be surmounted by a marginal bead or binding of varying size, shape and prominence, while permitting the savings and facilities of shoe manufacturing methods mentioned above.

Finally, it is an object of this invention generally to simplify and reduce the cost of shoe manufacture, while at the same time rendering the same more widely adaptable to new and improved finishing technique.

These and other objects of the invention will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, from the following description, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawing in, which: i

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary elevation of a shoe upper embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2. is a section taken on the line 2-.-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a section of cord constructed in accordance with a modification of this invention.

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic view of the fabric in section on the line 44 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a shoe embodying the present invention, part of the shoe being slashed and turned out.

Referring in detail to the drawing the shoe H], which is here represented as an opera pump for the purposes of illustration but may be of any other type, is provided with an upper H which has the marginal edge Ila. A piping or binding l2 formed of grosgrain fabric is stitched or cemented to the marginal edge of the upper on the inner side thereof. In accordance with one modification of the invention, the binding [2 is made up of a fabric strip or tape woven with selvage edges to a width of about one-half inch. A string I3 is placed along the medial line of said strip, which is then folded as shown in Fig. 2, so that when the binding is mounted in the shoe it presents a rounded finished edge In running around the margin-a1 edge of the upper. This binding not only serves the function of rendering the shoe neat and well finished in appearance, but also reduces the stretchability of the marginal part of the upper and renders the same better able to retain its shape and fit. It will be understood of course that the diameter of the string l3 used may be widely varied to get varying ornamental eifects in the contour of the edge I 2a. Also, it is within the purview of this invention to use different shaped strings I3 to get different ornamental effects of the finishing edge I2a instead of the circular one described above. For example, a small strip of sole leather having a diamond shaped cross section may be used instead of the circular string. Thus the edge l2a would be pointed instead of round. Similarly, a cord of square cross section may be used. The purpose of using sole leather instead of string is to provide for the rigidity description here.

necessary to effect the contour of the edge surface desired.

A lining member l of the usual type is sewed to the upper II by stitches [6. This lining covers the lower edge of the piping or binding [2.

Referring now to Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, there is shown a modified binding in which the particular desired contour of the edge |2a is woven into the tape, thus being in integral relation therewith, and the use of a separate filler member or string I3 is avoided. A strip of fabric 22 is woven with two selvage edges, 23 and 24, to a width of about one half an inch. At the longitudinal medial section, the warp threads are entered in the loom so that a rib or point 25 is formed in the finished article as shown in Fig. 4. The technique for accomplishing this result is well known in the textile weaving art and needs no further detailed Briefly, this is accomplished either by closer spacing of the warp threads at the desired point or by using yarn of heavier denier at this point, or by the combination of both expedients.

Now, when a piping or binding is woven with a cross section as shown in Fig. 4, it is merely necessary to fold the edges 23 and 24 together and sew the thus folded binding into the shoe. The rib 25 then acts as the edge l2a.

' Under certain conditions it may be desirable to use a form of piping or binding which is elastic. This is specially desirable at those parts of the shoe where a certain amount of stretch is Wanted,

such as for example, at the throat of a pump. Under these circumstances the binding herein described is woven with a lastex or other elastic yarn for the warp.

It will be 7 understood of course, that many changes iii the specific embodiment herein disclosed will readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art. This invention is therefore not to be construed as limited by any details of construction, but is to be given the full breadth of scope as set forth in the appended claim.

Having thus described my invention, I desire to claim and secure by Letters Patent:

In a low shoe having an upper and a lining and provided with a top opening extending from substantially the instep to the heel, and a binding attached to the marginal edge of said upper at said opening, said binding comprising a woven tape folded upon itself longitudinally of the tape and providing two layers and having an integrally woven longitudinally extending edge portion at said line of fold which is thicker than the combined thickness of said two layers at the portions thereof located inwardly of said edge portion, said last mentioned portions being positioned between said upper and the lining and said thicker folded edge portion lying above and adjacent the top edge of the upper and providing a longitudinally extending rib-like element forming a finished edge for the upper at said opening.

JACOB FEIN. 

